Style Guide · Fabric

Rayon, Modal, Cotton and Polyester: A Plain Fabric Guide

Fiber content is printed on every listing and read by almost nobody. It predicts more about how a top will feel than the photo does.

Rayon

Made from processed wood pulp, so it behaves like a plant fiber with a silk-like hand. It drapes better than almost anything at this price, breathes well, takes dye deeply and feels cool against skin in July. The trade: it is weak when wet, it shrinks in hot water and it wrinkles if you let it sit crushed. Cold wash, hang or lay flat, and a rayon top holds up for years.

Modal

A refined rayon made from beech pulp. Everything rayon does, done a little better: smoother surface, stronger wet, holds color through more washes and resists the shrinkage that catches people out. It costs more, which is why it usually shows up blended rather than alone. If a top feels unusually smooth for the price, modal is the reason.

Cotton

Breathable, sturdy, softens with every wash, and it absorbs moisture rather than moving it. That last part is why a cotton tee feels great on a warm day and clammy during a workout. It wrinkles, it can shrink on the first hot wash, and it holds shape well once it has settled.

Polyester

Synthetic, quick-drying, wrinkle-resistant and dimensionally stable, meaning it comes out of the wash the same size it went in. It moves sweat to the surface instead of soaking it up, which is the whole reason workout tops are built from it. Less breathable than the natural fibers in still air, and it holds odor more.

Spandex

Never the main event. Two to five percent turns a stiff knit into one that moves with you and returns to shape. Above about eight percent the fabric starts to compress rather than drape. When a tank says 95 percent polyester and 5 percent spandex, the spandex is doing the stretching and the polyester is doing everything else.

Reading a blend

BlendFeels likeBest for
95% rayon, 5% spandexFluid, cool, close to the bodyCamis, fitted tanks, drapey blouses
60% polyester, 35% rayon, 5% spandexSoft with structure, holds shapeEveryday tanks and tees that get washed a lot
Cotton and polyester mixFamiliar tee hand, less shrinkCrew necks, casual short sleeve
Modal-led blendSmooth, cool, quietly expensiveLounge sets, next-to-skin layers
Polyester-led knitLight, dry, springyWorkout tops, travel

Picking for the weather

Still heat, sitting outside: rayon or modal, every time. Moving heat, sweating: polyester. Cool office with a cold vent: cotton blend with sleeves. Long flight: a modal lounge set, because it does not wrinkle into a map after four hours in a seat.

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The pieces this guide keeps pointing at, from the XIEERDUO range.